Site Preparation
Single rows of roses require beds at least 3 feet wide; double rows need 4 to 5 feet. For convenience, it is preferable to not have more than two rows. Well prepared beds pay big returns in rose enjoyment!

Dig a hole about 18 inches deep by 2 feet in diameter for each bush. Incorporate a generous amount of organic material (peat moss or garden compost) with the native soil and 1 cup of dolomite lime. Mix thoroughly. If the soil is not well drained, consider growing roses in raised beds--roses need plenty of water, but the soil has to drain well. They don't like wet feet.

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Timing and Planting
Plant bare root roses from November through March when the soil is not frozen. Potted roses may be planted at almost any time.

Select good quality rose bushes (preferably from a reputable nursery or mail order, NOT the drugstore) which have not dried out in storage or shipment. Store bare root roses in a cool place if they are not to be planted immediately. Keep them moist. Soak roots briefly before planting. Potted roses may be held indefinitely before planting, provided usual watering and feeding continue. Bare root roses should be pruned back slightly before planting, cutting back to strong buds. Potted roses need to be pruned when planted. Dig a hole at least 18 inches deep in a prepared bed, mound up the soil in the middle, and arrange the roots over this mound so that the bud union (where the rose is grafted to the root) is level with the bed. Cover the roots with some soil, firm the soil around the roots and water thoroughly. When the soil has settled, finish filling the hole and mound soil over the canes to conserve moisture. (Note: This is important when planting in the early spring. Don't let the rose canes dry out before the roots get a chance to grow and supply moisture to the canes!) When new growth has started, remove the excess soil over the bud union so that it is exposed near the level of the bed.

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Location and Watering
Roses grow best in a sunny location; six hours daily is considered a minimum for lots of blooms. Try to select a location where there will be sun for at least half the day, not too near large trees or hedges. Morning sun with afternoon shade is preferable. Avoid planting in excessively sandy or clayey soils. Roses do best in relatively fine textured, but well drained, soils.

Roses in Olympia require at least one inch of water per week during the growing months. Slow soaking is best. Avoid overhead watering in the evening as it contributes to mildew and other diseases.

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Fertilization

Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, and Climbers Apply 1/2 cup of 10-20-20 per bush, three times per year. First application in late March or early April; second application in May; third application in late June or early July.

Miniatures First application in early April using 1 tablespoon of 10-20-20 scattered around each plant and scratched in lightly. For the second application in early June use a soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer such as Rapid-Gro, mixed according to the directions on the package; use 1 cup of this solution around the base of each plant. The third application early in July is the same as the second.

Old Garden Roses Most Old Garden Roses don't need much fertilizer. Once in the early spring with a general all purpose 20-20-20 will hold them for the year.

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Pruning

Why You Should Prune
The main purposes of pruning are:

1. To improve the appearance of the bush,
2. To stimulate growth,
3. Control over-wintering bugs and diseases, and
4. To control the quality and quantity of blooms.

Tall, thin canes produce more but smaller blooms. Fewer, thicker canes result in fewer but larger and better quality blooms. Light pruning is not recommended for most hybrid teas because tall, spindly bushes result. Moderate pruning means removal of 1/2 - 2/3 of the existing bush, while hard pruning leaves only 3-4 canes 8 to 12 inches long.

Bushes are always improved and never killed by pruning. Unpruned roses bloom on small cane tips, go to seed, and become dormant. Poor or "incorrect" pruning is better than no pruning at all. The general rule is to prune strong-growing bushes moderately and weak growers severely.

When to Prune
Fall pruning is normally done around Thanksgiving. Bushes should be cut back to about half their original height and leaves should be removed. This will prevent winter winds from whipping the bushes and loosening the root systems. Removing the leaves is done for hygienic reasons because insect eggs and fungal spores overwinter on leaves. It is a good practice to mound soil or mulch 6 to 8 inches deep around the plant to protect it from winter damage.

Spring pruning is usually done during the second week of March around south Puget Sound -- a week or so later at higher elevations. First remove the mounding material to expose the lower plant and canes. Then follow directions below on "How to prune."

How to Prune

1. Take out all dead wood.
2. Take out all crossed or twiggy growth.
3. Keep the center open for good air circulation.
4. Cut all canes to white or pale green pith. Any brown coloration in the pith indicates a dead or dying cane, in which case the cane should be pruned to a lower bud eye, clear to the crown if necessary, in order to find live pith.
5. Cut approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a bud, on a downward slant, away from the bud. Cut to an outside bud to make the plants grow wider. Cut to an inside bud for more upright growth on a plant that has a tendency to sprawl.
6. Use sharp tools for cutting. Use a keyhole saw or lopper to cut thick, woody, old canes.
7. Cut canes at uneven heights for a longer blooming period and better appearance.
8. Select from 3 to 6 strong basal shoots from previous year's growth. Remove all other growth. Then prune those canes left.

Accomplish as many chores as possible just after pruning before the bushes have sprouted. Remove mulch from the bud union, weed, and clean up the rose garden. This prevents breaking off the new shoots when doing these things later.

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Pest Control

Problem/Symptom	Cause	Solution
Leaves curl, rosebuds and foliage wither or become distorted in shape. A clear, sticky substance that attracts ants appears on foliage.	Aphids, semitransparent insects 1/8 inch long that cluster on new growth and flower buds. They suck the juice from the plant and secrete the sticky substance. Aphids can carry and spread diseases.	Aphids may be knocked off plants with a stream of water. In severe infestations, spray with an insecticide or an insecticidal soap.
Small, rounded holes appear in leaves. Eventually, the entire leaf surface between the veins disappears.	Rose slugs, the larvae of sawfly wasps. The slug is light green with a dark brown head and up to 1/2 inch long. Some species have shiny bodies; others are covered with hair. Rose slugs generally feed on the undersides of leaves; they do not eat buds and flowers.	Spray with an insecticidd and make sure the insecticide covers the undersides of leaves.
Buds do not open, or flowers are deformed. Petals have brownish yellow streaks and small dark spots or bumps. White and pastel roses are particularly susceptible.	Thrips, tiny orange insects with elongated bodies. Thrips feed at the bases of rosebuds and on the petals of open flowers. They seem to be attracted to light-colored blossoms.	To discourage thrips from attacking, spray plants with a systemic insecticide just before the buds open. If signs of thrip damage appear, remove and destroy infected flowers and buds. Spray infected plants with an insecticide. If the infestation is severe, repeat applications may be necessary.